Just over 15 ounces, dried and manicured. Went into jars for curing. It's super crystally. The high CBD is nice. It's a more mellow buzz, not too heady. Any aches or pains just melt away. I had a lot of popcorn buds. Next grow I'll work on pruning for fewer but fatter buds. I've got a heat press and prefer edibles anyways though, so the larfy stuff is great for pressing. That's 1.3 grams/watt grown organic under the ChilLED X3, with a fairly newb grower Larger buds Popcorn buds Some kief

Harvested yesterday 83 ounces wet, leafy, and on the stems.

@mutinysoldier I'm sure they're fine to harvest now. It's a 1:1 CBD strain and I'm looking for more sedative effects. Something for before bed time so I'm going to let them keep going for just a little longer. https://youtu.be/ySnb7Ck-0Rk This video from Weed in a Pot has some interesting info. He had buds tested for THC and shows how the trichs look during each of the last few weeks. In these tests THC peaked fairly early and waiting for week 8,9,10 lost THC potency but gained some in yield and other cannabinoids.

@mutinysoldier Here's pics from last week, not much difference though.

@jcarson702 it's been several years since I did hydro. I'd recommend doing some searching and see what makes sense for you. IIRC I used to top off the solution with something on the low end of the pH range. Then once in a while I'd replace the whole solution. Once the plants take off they're going to be using water faaaaaast. You should also be testing TDS or EC as well to get the full picture of what's going on.

@jcarson702 if you're running nutrients it's normal for the pH to drift up as the plants feed.

@mwhite9829 once I had a positive ID as a type of rove beetle I was able to find a lot more info. They do fly as adults, though not very well. These things are tiny, that's what had me initially thinking thrips, they're soooo small. My pic with the circle surrounded by black is taken under a handheld microscope. They fly up toward the light and get stuck in the trichs, mostly on leaf tips up in the colas. They're not crawling on the buds, just a few stuck here and there and they're usually dead by the time I find them. I pinch them out as I see them but they seem to be on the decline now. I only found 2 or 3 last night. There's lots of reports from people talking about them getting stuck in buds indoors. They're such weak fliers I doubt they'd make it that high in the breeze outdoors.

@Mr. Grow It here's a better pic fwiw EDIT: I'm now pretty positive they are rove beetles. I just found this short video linked from Dude Grows. These look identical to what's crawling in my soil. https://youtu.be/3RqMyjQwziE The plus side is they're harmless and actually good predators to kill harmful pests. The downside is that they do fly and they get up in the buds. They're attracted to the light and it looks like they're getting stuck in the sticky trichs.

Following. I'm interested in a recommendation for a humidifier with digital settings that can run up to at least 70% RH.

@jcarson702 adding air stones has well documented positive effects. Any particular reason you're doing passive hydroponics?

@Angrybird Growing I think you're loving them too much. RO shouldn't "strip nutrients" in that soil. 1200+ ppm is super high, especially for their size. It's very possible you've over watered. It's been a while since I've done liquid synth nutes but I'm thinking at that size you could be down at 400 ppm or less and be just fine. They should stand up to some drying out and it may even promote root growth. Try to water the medium more evenly, not just around the plants. You'll water less often then too, it'll keep a more even moisture. Do what you can to keep a more even RH. At this stage they'll benefit from higher humidity, 67 is good. They're small so they're not "breathing" a lot. Don't worry too much about fresh air exchange, the humidity is more important.

I have one of the cheaper PAR meters. It was like $180 on Amazon. It seems pretty accurate against the light manufacturer's PPD diagram. I get the desire to have a PAR meter, but honestly it's not a necessary expense. Do your best with the PPD charts, it'll be fine. With quality LEDs these days lighting shouldn't be your bottleneck. There's a few apps available to download that will help with Lux and conversions so you can check yourself and get some peace of mind.

It's fine to use. If you have any biotic supplements to add then I'd recommend it: Great White, Recharge, EM-1, Molasses, compost, etc. If you want to get the benefits of living organic soil you'll want to boost them back up since a lot died out when it dried. Don't let it stop your progress though. The best way to persevere soil, IMO, would be too add compost, cover crop, worms, and keep it watered and alive. But there's so many variables in growing and so many ways to do things successfully. Use what you have, use more stuff as time & budget permit, keep growing, keep learning, and just figure out what works for you.

What soil & amendments are you growing in? What lighting? Grow room environmental conditions?

@hafthor_grows makes sense, I'm using ocean forest. What are you doing for water? I'm using tap water run through an RV filter. I've got high pH hard water here, last I checked it was like 300 ppm after filtering. I run it into a bucket with an air stone and let it bubble for the 48 hours until I use it. I'll usually add a little molasses, I've read that it helps to bind up the chloramine. Sometimes I'll add EM-1, Great White, Recharge, Mammoth P, kelp extract, and/or liquid silica either individually or in some combination. It's just whatever I feel like hasn't been done recently, not scientific at all. I don't tend to add nutrient to the water except for maybe a little Clonex after transplanting in. This time around I added some Down to Earth organic P & K and let it bubble with molasses overnight as it was going into flower. I don't bother much with pH but maybe I should check it a little more often. I think last time I checked the molasses had brought it down under 7 so I've just run with it.

@hafthor_grows I've thought about adding air stones. I've used them in RDWC and my Aerogarden, they definitely help. In the Aerogarden you can see that the plants nearest the air stone have much bigger root systems. I was thinking that maybe drying out the reservoir could damage the roots that are down in there? I don't think that's much of an issue though as long as it's only for a short while. Mine is probably dry less than 12 hours, the soil doesn't go dry. Does moisture wick all the way to the top on yours? The top inch or two on mine is kinda dry so I spray it some, seems like the Bokashi does better with the added moisture and it helps to compost everything down.

@hafthor_grows what's the deal with letting it dry out? I know EarthBox says don't let it dry out. I think on Build A Soil he said he lets it dry out? I've been letting mine go dry. At this point it's usually dry in the reservoir every other day. What do you do? Got any tips you've figured out? What do you do after harvest and to prep a new grow?

@Mr. Grow It thanks! I'm liking this box. It's been a really easy grow and a lot less maintenance.

I believe sativas will often go longer than indicas, but it can depend on a lot of factors. Look up the suggested flowering times from the seed bank. They'll both probably go longer than they say but it's a good place to start.

Looks good to me. Is there anything in particular you're concerned about? Good job! Be patient and don't harvest too early!